Winter is a quiet time at the garden, since most plants are dormant, conserving energy for the upcoming growing season. However, winter is the best time to take stock, get organized and deal with minor upkeep and routine maintenance tasks. As a result, the garden is healthy and ready to perform at its best when the days lengthen and the scenery comes to life in spring.
November
November is time for lawn cleanup and preparation for weather. Hoeing or pulling weeds in November prevents them from setting seed and makes life easier in spring and summer. Once weeds are removed, plants like perennial flowers, berries and shrubs benefit from a two- to 3-inch layer of mulch that protects the roots from variations in temperatures. Dry, chopped leaves make good mulch, but wet leaves are best added to the compost pile. Used as mixers, they become compacted and protect against water and air from reaching plant roots. Instead, use bark chips, pine needles, or other all-natural mulch. Some gardeners prefer to cut perennials down to 4 to 6 inches in the ground in fall. However, leaving the perennials in place until spring adds interest to the garden and provides food and shelter for songbirds. November is the last chance to securely plant spring daffodils, tulips, crocus and other spring bulbs. November is also prime time to store garden equipment that won’t be required until spring. Service the lawnmower, and clean and sharpen the blades. Drain garden hoses, and store them out of this weather.
December
December is a slow period in the lawn, but small maintenance jobs keep the lawn looking its very best. Water plants if the winter is cold and dry, as hydrated plants are better able to tolerate cold temperatures. Pull weeds that still lurk in the flower bed, and rake stray leaves. Remember to turn the compost pile and cover it with plastic when the winter is very wet. If the garden didn’t perform well the previous season, December down-time is a fantastic opportunity to have a soil sample into the local University Extension Office. Use the test results to make soil amendments or adjustments in fertilizer the subsequent year. Put Christmas trees to good use by placing them in which wild birds can use the branches for shelter. Otherwise, cut back the branches, and lay them above tender perennials.
January
For most gardeners, January is time to check at seed catalogs and begin planning for spring. Draw a diagram, and also use it to figure out how to plant the coming season’s vegetable garden. Assess seeds, and toss any that are outdated before ordering fresh, brand new seeds. To reduce development of certain plant diseases and fungi, don’t forget to plant cabbage relatives like broccoli, cauliflower, radishes and Brussels sprouts where they have not been planted for at least two decades. Mulch that washes or blows off should be replaced in January. Bare-root roses and ornamental shrubs have been securely planted in January, that is also the best time to start cuttings of deciduous shrubs and trees in a warm, sunny indoor region, as well as perennial bloomers like geraniums, primroses or phlox.
February
February is time to begin preparing the garden for spring. Winter-damaged divisions from most trees and shrubs are securely removed in February. However, wait to prune shrubs like rhododendron, azalea, forsythia, redbud and dogwood until after booming, since pruning them any other time eliminates buds. Most flower vines like clematis or honeysuckle are also securely pruned in February. When the soil dries, it’s time to plant sweet peas and garden peas, which thrive in cool weather. Before planting, boost the soil with two to three inches of manure or compost. Tune up the lawn mower. Clean stored garden clippers, trowels and other tools with rubbing alcohol or a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water.