Often owners of older homes are confronted with intriguing challenges when bringing their homes into the 21st century. Not wanting to destroy the character of their homes, many leave antiquated or unworthy features, such as rickety utility basement stairs. These narrow staircases often led to kitchens housed in the basement and allowed household workers to come and go with no detected by guests. When the kitchen transferred onto the primary level of the home, these staircases became obsolete. Building a floor over these previous staircases necessitates some carpentry ability, but if you’ve ever built a deck, the method will seem familiar.
Filling the Gap
Assess the depth of this floors you wish to install the section of subfloor over. For instance, a brand new tile segment might add or more inch to the height of the ground. Write this number down; the achievement of your job is dependent upon your careful placement of the joists for the segment of floor. Remove and put it aside.
Start at the rear of the basement stairwell, furthest from the door, and install a joist hanger at which the close of the flooring material will probably sit. Line the joist hanger together with the bottom of a single joist (put it low enough on the joist to permit for the new floor to sit flush with the remainder of the floor) and hammer it in using 3 1/2-inch-long claws. Use self-tapping screws if your home is old or assembled from pine — you will break a great deal of nails if you are not careful (occasionally, it may be essential to pre-drill the holes even with self-tapping screws). Measure in front of this opening into the edge of the hanger. Mark this location on the opposite side and attach the joist hanger in the exact same site.
Until you arrive at the front of the opening, repeat Step 2 every 16 to 24 inches. If there is no lip to hang the front of this subflooring on install an additional pair of joist hangers against the front of the stairwell opening.
Assess the opening between the pair of joist hangers in the rear of the opening, between the inner rear of every hanger. Subtract a quarter inch out of the dimension that is total and also cut a joist. Start a nail or screw about a half inch from each end of the joist and penetrating in a 45-degree angle, just strong enough to hold the fastener in place. The joist into the joist hangers on each side of the stairwell. Settle the joist before tacking it into place with the fastener into the hanger you started at a angle. Screw through the openings onto the joist hangers into the joists using 1-inch screws. Repeat for many joists.
Assess the stairwell opening (now full of joists) around its perimeter and record those amounts. Take your figures and draw them onto the sheet with the help of a straight edge. Cut this out shape using a circular saw and return into the opening with it.
Lay the subfloor adjusting it until it fits snugly in all corners. Screw the subfloor to the joists in 8to 12-inch intervals using 2-inch screws. Caulk around the seam to stop air infiltration. Install the flooring that is final in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
Remove the treads from the coated cellar staircase using a pry bar (the upper two treads may be easier to eliminate before you install the subfloor atop the joists).
Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the flush with the floor joists above. Place the stringers aside to use as scrap lumber unless they have nails.
Install insulating material between the joists that matches the type already. Staple batt insulation in place or spray the seams below the ground with spray foam.